Camellias are very rewarding plants to
grow. Being evergreen they can provide either structure in the garden
itself or an excellent boundary, providing privacy from neighbours or
deflecting winds in exposed areas. The dark green leaves of most
Camellias make the perfect backdrop for other plants in the garden,
and as most Camellias flower in spring they extend the season of
interest.
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Worth every care and effort... C. 'Rainbow' (autumn) |
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To get the best from your Camellias you
must first understand a few basic rules of thumb. All Camellias need
neutral to acid soil (pH of 7 or below), none will tolerate lime.
Most Camellias prefer shade, although in areas with cool damp summers
(such as Cornwall, west Devon, the south of Wales) they will grow
happily in full sun. No Camellias like extremes of wet or dry soils;
a light, humus rich, moisture retentive soil is perfect. Most
Camellias in cultivation are reliably hardy in most of the UK, but
their roots aren't as hardy as their tops, so bear this in mind if
you want to grow them in pots (make sure the pots can't freeze). In
pots Camellias can be grown in ericaceous compost, preferably
something heavy like an ericaceous 'John Innes' mix; don't over-pot
them when they're small, and bear in mind that one day they will
probably outgrow the pots you have chosen for them, at which point
they will need planting out. You can feed potted Camellias with an
ericaceous feed, but in the ground an annual mulch of good compost
(not mushroom compost which contains lime!) or well rotted manure
would be better. A mulch will help to conserve moisture as well as
improving the all important soil structure.
Camellia flower buds tend to be
produced in July/August, and then they swell up for winter before
opening in spring. While the plant is producing buds it is
particularly sensitive to drought, so make sure your plant doesn't
get too dry at this crucial point in the year, especially in pots.
The reputation that Camellias aren't completely hardy comes from the
fact that their flowers can be damaged after frosts. To avoid damage
to flowers make sure your Camellia is shaded from direct morning
sunshine during the winter, where the rapid warming of frozen buds by
the sun causes damage. Allow your Camellia's flower buds to defrost
slowly and they are usually OK. Hard frosts will often damage open
flowers, but this is the price we all pay when we grow early
flowering plants. 'Camellia flower blight' is a fungal problem that
causes blotching on the flowers- rake up dropped flowers and pick
damaged flowers off the plant and you should be able to keep this
problem at bay. To avoid spreading fungal spores you must not compost
Camellia flowers.
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Just beautiful! Camellia 'Desire' (spring) |
Camellias can be pruned after
flowering. Usually removing unwanted shoots or pinching back the tips
of shoots to encourage bushiness will be sufficient, but occasionally
more severe pruning may be needed. If you need to severely prune your
Camellia then I would personally recommend doing so after frosts have
passed; this will probably interfere with the flowering for that
spring, but it would at least allow the plant plenty of time to break
from old wood, grow shoots and then allow those new shoots to ripen
before winter.
Camellias are extraordinarily diverse
in terms of colour, flower type and season. Broadly speaking most
varieties fall into one of three main groups.
Camellia japonica
The C. japonica
varieties are by far the most diverse, ranging from varieties with
single flowers right through to very complex doubles, and with
colours from white through to dark red. Most varieties I'm aware of
have fairly large leaves, and all C. japonica varieties (to my
knowledge) flower in spring.
Camellia x williamsii
This group are
all derived from crossing Camellia saluensis and C. japonica.
Typically C. x williamsii varieties produce prolific clusters of
flowers, and often flower from a young age. Most C. x williamsii
varieties seem to be pink, although a couple are white and one
('Jury's Yellow') is a creamy yellow colour. Some people prefer C. x
williamsii cultivars because they drop their spent flowers, but to be
honest I've never really noticed C. japonica holding onto its spent
flowers for any length of time. There is a lot greater diversity of
flower types and colours in C. japonica. With only one exception to
my knowledge ('November Pink') all C. x williamsii varieties flower
in spring.
Camellia sasanqua
Although
Camellias are often thought of as exclusively spring flowering
plants, autumn flowering varieties are becoming increasingly popular.
By far the best known of the autumn flowering Camellias must be the
varieties of C. sasanqua. Many of these varieties are richly scented,
and the scent will carry well in a warm and sheltered garden. C.
sasanqua varieties are believed to need a warm and sunny spot in the
garden for the stems to ripen and flower; this might be true, but
they might need that warm and sheltered spot so that they can have a
longer growing season to set flower buds. As a general rule
the autumn flowering Camellias are a lot more sensitive to feed than
spring flowering varieties.
There are
thousands upon thousands of varieties of Camellia known in
cultivation, but you can view some of the varieties that have caught
my attention here on my
Pinterest board.